Group : Dendrobium
Covers these genera : Ceratostylis (Crtstl.)
, Dendrobium (Den.)
, Epigeneium (Epig.)
, Eria (Eria)
, Inobulbon (Ino.)
General information for this group :
Very rewarding and easy to grow. The major issues tend to be overpotting, and not
respecting the rest periods for those that need it.
The initial discussion is for Dendrobium and any hybrid which has Dendrobium
in it's background.
For subgroups that have additional information, it will appear under individual
headings near the
bottom of the page. Alternatively, you can click on the genus name above to take
you directly to that subgroup.
Description :
Dendrobiums are a very rewarding and easy group of orchids to grow.
Many of them have flowers which last several months,
and many are also sweetly fragrant !
Light :
This group prefers moderate to bright light, depending on which section they belong to.
Refer to the table below for specifics on each section that we grow.
Temperature :
Most Dendrobiums prefer intermediate to warm temperatures during their active growth
period. Some require a cooler, dry rest to initiate blooming.
If no distinct rest is required, and winter temperatures are cooler,
then keep plants on the drier side.
Refer to the table below for specifics on each section that we grow.
Media :
When grown in smaller pots (2.5" and under), then sphagnum in often an ideal choice to
provide moisture for an extended period of time. In larger pots (3" and over), then
a good bark-mix is appreciated. Pots should be wider than deep, since Dendrobiums are
shallow rooters.
Water :
Rainwater and dehumidifier water are the best overall choices, since some groups resent
hard water of any kind. NEVER use softened water, and well-water is only suitable for
the more tolerant species. Good humidity is usually essential for all sections, and
more so for those that do not have a distinct rest period.
Refer to the table below for specifics on each section that we grow.
Fertilizing :
Use a balanced orchid fertilizer (3:1:3 or 4:1:4 ratio) at 1/4 to 1/2 strength,
throughout the early and mid
ranges of the active growing period. It is best to stop fertilization completely about
4 to 6 weeks before the end of the growing season (for us that is mid-August), to allow
adequate flushing of the
pots before the rest period (for those that require one). Note that the presence of
excess nitrogen in the fertilizer will usually result in very few if any flowers, with
keikis being produced instead.
Blooming :
Flowering Dendrobiums is easy, provided the individual section requirements are respected.
If you are having trouble blooming yours, ensure that you are providing the right
conditions throughout the year.
Quick reference table for section requirements :
General Comments :
| Section or Common Group Name | Light | Temperature | Rest Details | Additional Notes and Examples |
| Phalaenanthe (Phalaenopsis) |
moderate to bright | intermediate | short cool dry rest (2 weeks) in November/December or no rest period | Keep very potbound for best results. Some species are bigibbum, phalaenopsis, amabile. |
| Ceratobium (Antelope) |
moderate to bright | intermediate to warm | short cool dry rest (2 weeks) in November/December or no rest period | Keep very potbound for best results. Some species are taurinum, antennatum, tangerinum. |
| Latourea (New Guinea) |
moderate | intermediate to warm | no rest | Appreciate moisture-retentive media like sphagnum. Very durable flowers. Some species are atroviolaceum, forbesii, aberrans, spectabile. |
| Nobile (Soft-cane) |
moderate to bright | intermediate to warm | Give high light, almost no water, no fertilizer and cool nights (8 to 10 ° C), starting mid September to mid October. Rest period is 6 to 8 weeks. | Those with elongated canes are often more easily managed when mounted. Some species are nobile, monoliforme, friedericksianum, anosmum. |
| Australians (Hard-cane) |
bright | intermediate | Give high light, almost no water, no fertilizer and cool nights (8 to 10 ° C), starting mid September to mid October. Rest period is 6 to 8 weeks. | Some species are speciosum, kingianum, adae. |
| Callista (Chandelier types) |
bright | intermediate | Give high light, almost no water, no fertilizer and cool nights (8 to 10 ° C), starting mid September to mid October. Rest period is 6 to 8 weeks. | Short-lived but spectacular displays. Some species are thyrsiflorum, densiflorum, chrysotoxum, harveyanum. |
| Nigrohirsute (black-haired) |
moderate to bright | intermediate to warm | Give higher light, almost no water, no fertilizer and cooler nights (12 to 14 ° C), starting mid to late October. Rest period is 3 to 4 weeks. Keep barely moist until new growth begins to show. | Some species are formosum, sanderae, cruentum. |
| Aporum | moderate | intermediate to warm | short cool dry rest (2 weeks) in November/December or no rest period | Usually grow much better mounted on treefern or cork. Some species are anceps, leonis, distichum. |
| Calyptrochilus | moderate | intermediate | short cool dry rest (2 weeks) in November/December or no rest period | Some of the brightest colored flowers in the genus. Most grow better on mounts. Some species are lawesii, mohlianum, obtusisepalum. |
| Oxyglossum (including Cuthbertsonia) |
moderate | cool to intermediate (high temperatures and low humidity are not tolerated) | no rest period | Many miniatures in this section. Water quality is very important for this group. Some species are cyanocentrum, delicatulum, cuthbertsonii, laevifolium. |
Inobulbon is best treated like the Latourea section above.
Description :
Same as for Dendrobium, except :
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