Group : Cattleya
Covers these genera : Arpophyllum (Arpphy.)
, Barkeria (Bark.)
, Brassavola (B.)
, Brassocattleya (Bc.)
, Brassoepidendrum (Bepi.)
, Brassolaelia (Bl.)
, Brassolaeliocattleya (Blc.)
, Broughtonia (Bro.)
, Catcylaelia (Ctyl.)
, Cattleya (C.)
, Cattleytonia (Ctna.)
, Catyclia (Cty.)
, Caularthron (Cau.)
, Caulocattleya (Clty.)
, Cookara (Cook.)
, Diacattleya (Diaca.)
, Diacrium (Diacm.)
, Dialaelia (Dial.)
, Dimeranda (Dim.)
, Encyclia (Enc.)
, Epicattleya (Epc.)
, Epicyclia (Epy.)
, Epidendrum (Epi.)
, Epilaelia (Epl.)
, Epilaeliocattleya (Eplc.)
, Epiphronitis (Ephs.)
, Gerberara (Gba.)
, Hasegawaara (Hasgw.)
, Hawkinsara (Hknsa.)
, Isabelia (Isbla.)
, Iwanagaara (Iwan.)
, Kirchara (Kir.)
, Laelia (L.)
, Laeliocatonia (Lctna.)
, Laeliocattleya (Lc.)
, Leptotes (Lpt.)
, Lyonara (Lyon.)
, Maclemoreara (Mclmra.)
, Myrmecatlaelia (Mycl.)
, Nageliella (Ngl.)
, Nanodes (Nands.)
, Oerstedella (Orstdl.)
, Otaara (Otr.)
, Potinara (Pot.)
, Rhyncholaelia (Rl.)
, Rothara (Roth.)
, Scaphyglottis (Scgl.)
, Schombocatonia (Smbcna.)
, Schombolaelia (Smbl.)
, Schombolaeliocattleya (Scl.)
, Schomburgkia (Schom.)
, Sophrocattleya (Sc.)
, Sophrolaelia (Sl.)
, Sophrolaeliocattleya (Slc.)
, Sophronitis (S.)
, Stanfieldara (Sfdra.)
, Yamadaara (Yam.)
Introduction :
This group of plants represents a major reason for the popularization of orchids.
Cattleyas are, and probably always will remain, the favorites for corsages. Many of the
species and hybrids produce intoxicating sweet or spicy fragrances. Coupled with their
outstanding beauty, this secures their continued popularity amongst orchid hobbyists.
Plant Size Terminology :
Cattleyas are usually referred to according to their plant sizes. These are
the categories and criteria that are used (excluding bloom spikes) :
Micro-Mini : under 4 inches in height
Mini : 4 inches to 8 inches in height
Compact : 8 inches to 12 inches in height
Mid-sized (aka Intermediate) : 12 inches to 18 inches in height
Standard : over 18 up to 30 inches in height
Light :
Cattleya plants need a good amount of light to grow and flower well.
A good guide to whether or not a plant is getting the proper light is
the colour of the leaves.
They should be a medium green, rather than a dark lush green.
The pseudobulbs should be straight and upright, without needing support.
Micro-mini and Mini types typically require less light, and
can be grown very well under fluorescent lights, an average east or west
window or filtered south window. Compact, mid-sized and standard catts may require
more light to bloom, particularly if they are unifoliate. Unifoliate means
that they never have more than one large leaf at the top of the
pseudobulbs. Bifoliates (2 or more leaves at the top) have a lower light
requirement. If you find that your larger cattleyas aren't blooming, then
try a brighter east or west window, or less filtered south window. You might
also verify that your fertilizer does not contain too much nitrogen, which
could suppress blooming.
Green-flowered and blue cattleyas will produce nicer-colored flowers if they are kept out of strong light while blooming. Higher light levels tend to really muddy the clarity of these specific colors.
Temperature :
The best temperature range for growth and flowering is 27 ° C during the day,
and 16 ° C at night.
However, these plants are very resilient and can tolerate a wider range of
temperatures if the humidity and watering are adjusted.
A good rule of thumb is to increase humidity and watering at higher
temperatures, and reduce both of them at lower temperatures. Lower temperatures
will give brighter and more uniform coloration of the orange and red mini-catts,
because of the Sophronitis in their backgrounds. At higher temperatures,
especially night temperatures, your red cattleya could produce blooms that are
more orange in coloration.
Media :
Allow to dry for 1 day between waterings. One thorough watering
per week is usually sufficient. Plants prefer to be underpotted.
Make sure the potting mixture is free-draining, and choose pots that
are wider than they are deep. This group are not deep rooters, but
are definitely lateral rooters. Recommended potting mixes are bark
mixes, small in small pots, and layered coarse and small in larger pots.
Water :
Cattleya plants have evolved water storage organs, called pseudobulbs to withstand
periodic droughts in their native habitats.
For this reason, it is recommended that plants in cultivation be allowed
to go nearly dry between waterings.
Mature plants generally need to be watered about once per week,
smaller plants perhaps every 4-5 days during most of the year.
At cooler times of the year, plants may be left a little longer between
waterings. When in doubt, wait a day to water. Always water thoroughly,
allowing water to drain well through the drainage holes in the bottom of the
pot.
This group can withstand a certain degree of hardness to the water, so in most cases city water is fine. Rainwater and dehumidifier water are also fine. If you only have well-water at your disposal, then mix it with equal parts of rainwater or distilled water. NEVER use softened water.
Fertilizing :
Use a balanced orchid fertilizer (3:1:3 or 4:1:4 ratio) at 1/4 to 1/2 strength,
throughout the entire active growing period.
If you are using good quality city water, then fertilize once per 3 weeks
at the most, using 1/4 of the recommended strength on the label. If you
use rainwater or distilled water, then this can be increased to once every
2 weeks at the most. Only fertilize during active growth periods to avoid
burning the roots. Usually this is from February to September inclusive.
Make sure to flush the pots every month at least,
using distilled or rain water in copious amounts to remove any accumulated
salts. Well-water must be diluted by at least half by adding distilled or
rain water to limit damage caused by excessive minerals. NEVER use softened or
bottled water.
Blooming :
Cattleyas usually blooming on each new growth if they are mature enough. Blooming
is entirely dependent on the species in the background, as each species has its
own particular blooming season and corresponding triggers to induce blooming.
Our Plants :
The seedlings that we sell in 2.5 inch pots
are usually potted in sphagnum moss, which
accelerates their growth at this size. Watering once per week is usually
adequate, ensuring that the moss feels somewhat dry before applying water.
Leave them in this mix for about a year. The plant will likely be to the
edge of the pot, or slightly over the edge by this point. Then graduate the
pot size up to a 3 inch pot and small bark mix. Either pre-wet the bark, or
drench thoroughly after repotting. For pot sizes 4 inches and larger we
usually use coarser bark mix for the bottom half of the pot and top it off
with smaller bark mix to increase moisture retention and humidity for the
root mass.
Description : Strap-leaved plants that produce lovely packed sprays of purple flowers that are very similar to Liatris or Lythrum.
Same as for Cattleya, except :
Description : Plants have thickened cane-like stems instead of pseudobulbs. Most readily produce keikis at the leaf-axils. Epidendrums in particular are often used as hedges in warmer climates.
Same as for Cattleya, except :
Description : Contains the majority of micro-mini and miniature species and hybrids. Best mounts are cork and treefern.
Same as for Cattleya, except :
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